From North Base it’s just a short stroll to Paihia Wharf and the passenger ferry across to Russell. New Zealand’s first capital offers plenty of reasons for you to spend a day there.
The walk up Flagstaff Hill is a must for the great Bay of islands view. The site is part of New Zealand folklore through the actions of Hone Heke and his men who back in the 1840s cut the flagstaff down not once but four times in protest at colonial rule. Note the sheath of iron protecting the flagpole’s lower section.
Russell from Flagstaff Hill
It takes about 30 minutes to walk from the wharf up the Flagstaff Hill Track, signposted on Wellington Street. The views from the top are stunning, especially when the walk is timed for sunset or even later to gaze at the stars. Take a torch if planning a night walk as the track is not lit. Walk back down via the steps and path that bring you to the only road heading downwards.
A detour along the way up to Flagstaff Hill follows a stream that leads down to pleasant little Waihihi Bay.
Russell was built right on the water’s edge and several historical buildings remain in use. Pompalier Mission was home to Mew Zealand’s first Catholic bishop, where his team translated religious texts into Maori (which until about then had never been a written language). The tour of Pompallier Mission and Printery is highly recommended.
There are numerous eateries along the Russell waterfront, but the Duke of Marlborough Hotel stands out. Operating since the early days when Russell was dubbed the ‘Hellhole of the Pacific’ for the antics of visiting trader sand whalers, NZ’s first pub is a rebuilt beauty at the heart of town.
On York St just back from the waterfront, Russell Museum tells the fascinating story of the fishing village of Kororareka that became Russell. Wander the streets and you’ll find interesting shops to browse as you take in the culture and heritage of the historic town.
Other walks just outside the commercial center include the coastal walkway between Russell and Okiato, and the Tapeka Point track beyond Flagstaff Hill. And of course there’s lovely Russell beach to relax on while waiting for your return ferry to North Base.
The passenger ferry operates year-round and takes 16 minutes to cross the bay. If you’d like to drive across and explore the Russell area more widely, there’s a car ferry operating between Opua and Okiato.
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